WANTED. Dead or Alive

 

WANTED. Dead or Alive

“James and Jake had already towed into a bunch of waves by the time the other guys got out there. They were going so hard.” Said Juriah. “They surfed for many long hours. Start to finish, they were surfing HARD. They weren’t on the biggest waves, but they rode the most waves.

Then Andrew Marr got this huge bloody wave!!(Laughing with a note of hysteria in his voice.) That thing came down right in front of us. It broke right in front of Pieter. (Whistles loudly) There were some seriously paddle-able waves, but the guys were buzzing on the tow boards. There were some really good waves from the back that you could have easily caught if you were in the right place.” His voice trails off. “But if you got caught in the wrong place, then it would have been tickets. But still...there were some good rideable waves.

Steve, Pieter and I came out on a little rubber duck. After a while we got too nauseous just sitting on the boat, so we decide to try and paddle. It was really difficult ‘cause it was slabbing before the second boil. As the tide filled in, we managed to get two waves each on the inside. That wave of Andrews is probably the biggest wave I’ve seen in real life. I was stoked for him. In the end, one of the guys towed me into a couple of waves. It was a totally different perspective. It felt like snowboarding or sand boarding. It was really hard on my legs though. I Feel stiff! (Laughs out loud again.)What a day!!”

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